Connecting Wired Subwoofer to Soundbar

Connecting Wired Subwoofer to Soundbar

Subwoofers are a great way to enhance your sound experience at home by making you feel the low-frequency sounds in music, movies, or games. These are excellent additions to your home and are easily part of mid-range and high-end set ups.

Different kinds of subwoofers and speakers possibly connecting and wired to soundbars
Photo by Pedro Martin on Unsplash

If you already have a soundbar, you might be interested in connecting subwoofers for a better listening experience. But before you can get anything done your soundbar should be properly placed so you are getting the most out of it.

Related: How to Power a Passive Subwoofer

How to Properly Position your Soundbar

Before you go out and connect a sub to your sound bar, make sure it is properly placed. If it is slanted and you are sitting anywhere but directly in front of it, your listening experience will surely be compromised. 

Knowing how to set up your home theatre will make all the difference.

In pretty much any home theatre set up, you will notice they are almost always lined up with the TV. Soundbars can have pretty large dimensions, and some people will find that their TV stand does not have the space for the soundbar’s best placement. You will risk placing it at an awkward angle or position and this defeats the purpose of upgrading your audio quality. 

How to Properly Position your Soundbar
Image by Bru-nO from Pixabay

Seating is also important when it comes to soundbars. Their long and straight nature ensures an even sound experience for listeners or an audience seated in front of it, not off the side. 

You may also consider mounting it on the wall. If you are working with limited space, a good option is to hang the speaker on a wall directly above the TV. Brackets are easily found online or in-store for this purpose. Just make sure you don’t place the speaker too far above the TV to avoid audio delays.

Once you have a properly placed soundbar, it’s time to look into adding a subwoofer for the ultimate home theatre experience. 

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Five Tips When Choosing The Best Subwoofer For Your Soundbar

Before purchasing the best subwoofer for your soundbar, there a few key things you should consider.

#1. Soundbar Connections

Some soundbars have proprietary outputs that make connecting a wired subwoofer impossible. If you want to expand your home theater audio experience, look for a soundbar that accepts a cable (like the SVS SoundPath RCA Audio Interconnect Cable) or something comparable. Cables like this should work with almost any subwoofer, including all SVS models.

#2. Cabinet Size

One of the biggest factors for choosing a soundbar for your home is the visual impact. If you want it to have a minimal visual impact in a room, you will likely want a compact subwoofer that can be concealed or discreetly integrated into the interior of your space. Most people opt for a sealed cabinet sub because they have smaller cabinet dimensions and footprints than their ported sub counterparts.

#3. Your Listening Preferences

Of course, your personal preferences for audio quality are a key factor in choosing a soundbar. Soundbars by nature can’t match the output of a 5.1 home theater surround sound speaker system or Dolby Atmos. With this, you don’t need a massive subwoofer to significantly improve bass response and impact. But if you want a more immersive experience – especially for listening to intense music, watching action movies, or intense games – then a larger and more powerful subwoofer will be right for you.

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#4. Room Size

Similar to cabinet size, the room size where you intend to place your sub is important. If you have an open concept living room or maybe a massive home theater in your basement, the bass from a small subwoofer will probably lack the ability to energize the entire space with seat-rumbling bass. A bigger space needs a larger subwoofer, or even two small subs, to get even bass response throughout the listening area. Meanwhile if you are placing your sub in a small bedroom or game room only, there is no need for purchasing the largest one in the market. Smaller subs are also more convenient to set up, move around, and customize.

#5. Subwoofer Accessories

Lastly, one way to reduce visual impact and open up speaker placement options in a room is to install a wireless subwoofer kit. This will be useful if the sub is on the opposite side of the room from the soundbar because it removes the need for a subwoofer interconnect cable as we mentioned earlier. Although rare and possibly more expensive, it is possible to run dual subwoofers out of a single sub output on a soundbar by installing an RCA Y-adapter.

It may seem like added work and expenses, but there are many benefits to having a sub at home.

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Why Should You Add a Subwoofer to Your Soundbar

Most users will even say that no home entertainment center is complete without an added sub for that high-quality audio experience everyone wants to have.

Why Should You Add a Subwoofer to Your Soundbar
Image by Free-Photos from Pixabay

In the case that your sound bar already came with a built-in sub, it’s understandable to want more bass. Adding an external sub will undoubtedly give your listening experience an upgrade. Only a sub will provide the rumbling bass that completes battle scenes or EDM songs! 

Here are three reasons why you should connect a subwoofer to your sound bar:

Depth of Sound

Imagine watching an action movie at the theater and wishing your sound system at home could reproduce the heart-thumping rumble you felt. Well, once you add a sub, you can recreate that experience. The sub can recreate the low bass signals that your sound bar can’t. 

Subwoofers have their limitations too and they are not quite as powerful as monster speakers or those with Dolby Atmos, they can still recreate the cinematic feeling you get in the movie theater because of the new technologies.

Proper Size

We all know the struggle with adding furniture in a small room. But because low frequency sounds are largely omnidirectional (meaning you can’t exactly tell where they’re coming from), there are always lots of options when it comes to the placement of your subwoofer. To maximize the audio quality experience and take up minimal space, people opt to place their sub on the floor – usually next to the entertainment center, where the sound bar is underneath the TV, wall-mounted or placed on a cabinet. 

Look and Feel

Subwoofers are designed to blend in well with virtually any home environment. Typically, they appear as a simple black box below your line of sight, and they don’t need to be at the heart of your space. You can tuck it away in a corner or beside another piece of furniture, like a bookshelf, where it gets less attention. There are plenty of options to choose from and you are free to pick the sub that will be a perfect fit for your home theater as most subs can be mounted horizontally or vertically. 

If you are ready to get your hands on an external sub for your sound bar, you will first want to make sure that it is compatible with the sound bar you’ve already got at home. You can easily do this by checking the back of your sound bar for a subwoofer output jack. If it has one, it will work perfectly with any powered subwoofer in the market. 

Making the Connection

Fortunately, it is relatively easy to gain the benefit of the additional bass information that a subwoofer provides as long as our sound bar offers a subwoofer output on one end. Always check for this option before choosing a soundbar for your home! If you have limited space, consider adding a smaller and compact subwoofer. We’ll talk you through the process below.

The process of connecting a wired subwoofer to a sound bar is simple. All you need is a mono or monaural audio cable with the appropriate connectors on the other end.

Once you’ve got all these items, follow the three easy steps.

#1. On your sound bar, locate the subwoofer out jack. It is usually located on the rear of the unit.
#2. Locate the input port on your subwoofer. Similar to step 1, it is usually on the rear of the unit.
#3. Plug one end of the mono cable into the soundbar’s subwoofer out jack and the other end into the subwoofer’s input jack.

Easy as that!

Once connected, your sub and sound bar will work seamlessly with each other. The sound bar will reproduce most of the audio frequencies while the sub will handle the lowest bass and rumble frequencies.

Conclusion

Since many soundbars do not include the ability to hook up a subwoofer, it is most important to check if your speaker has this functionality. If not, you may want to look into other soundbars that either come with a built-in subwoofer or officially support them so you can truly enjoy high quality audio at home.

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Best Soundbar Without Subwoofer in 2021 – Reviews & Buyers Guide

One of the Best Soundbar Without Subwoofer in a white background

If you want to upgrade your TV-watching experience, it might be time to invest in a soundbar. Soundbars are not only affordable speakers, but they are so easy to set up and offer improved sound quality over your built-in TV speaker. That’s why soundbars are more popular than home theater speakers, AV (audiovisual) receivers, and subwoofers.

There are many soundbars in the market right now, and they are bound to offer better audio quality than your current built-in speakers. That’s because they offer clear sound, more than one sound mode, and can even work with your existing smart speakers. So, yes, you can talk to your soundbars through Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant. With many soundbars to choose from, finding the best one that suits your home can be challenging. But this guide will surely help you narrow it down to the perfect soundbar for your living room or even your home theater system.

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Choosing the Best Soundbar

Center speaker close-up

To test the quality of the best potential soundbars in 2021, we compared them against similarly priced models with a combination of movies and music. Product specs were also considered, as well as account features like multiroom capabilities, the number of HDMI ports, high-resolution audio, Bluetooth connectivity, surround sound, or Dolby Atmos.

We considered the following factors in terms of choosing the best soundbars:

  • Sound Performance
  • Design
  • Connectivity
  • Device Controls

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Here Are Our Picks for the Best Soundbars of 2021:

Listed below is our shortlist for the best soundbar without a wireless subwoofer.

1. Sony HT-ST5000 Sound Bar

Sony HT-ST5000 Sound Bar

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This is the most expensive soundbar on our list, and with good reason. The Sony HT-ST5000 Sound Bar comes with Dolby Atmos, creating the perfect surround sound experience. It also offers Bluetooth streaming, higher quality wireless music streaming (thanks to Sony’s LDAC technology), and game mode.

You will notice it is a bigger speaker at almost 47 inches wide, making it more appropriate for TVs 55-inches or larger. There are nine drivers with 800-watt power, and you will hear their greatness every single time.

Reviews for the ST5000 mostly applaud Sony for the excellent sound effects, compatibility with all formats, and flawless passthrough. However, the moment I unpacked the box, I was already blown away by the sleek design and magnetic grill.

In all, the HT-ST5000 is one big, very serious, very powerful sound machine that makes movies and music equally well. And like everything else from Sony, it’s all very thoughtfully laid out. As a result, this is the perfect premium soundbar in the market – admittedly, one of the best soundbars ever released.

Overall Rating: 10/10

  • Sound Performance: 9/10
  • Design: 10/10
  • Connectivity: 10/10
  • Device Controls: 9/10

Pros

  • Three pairs of tweeters and woofers, plus two Dolby Atmos units
  • Easy device and remote control set up

Cons

  • No way to add two rear speakers
  • Very high price point

HT-ST5000 7.1.2ch 800W Dolby Atmos Sound Bar Specs

Dimension:46.46″ x 3.15″ x 5.71″ (W x H x D)
Weight:8.2 lbs
Warranty:1 year
Wireless Connectivity:Wi-Fi, Bluetooth technology
Dolby Atmos:Yes
DTS X:Yes
DTS Virtual X:No

2. Sonos Arc Wireless Sound Bar

Sonos Arc Wireless Sound Bar

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The Sonos Arc Wireless Sound Bar packs an immersive Dolby Atmos experience into a slim package. You will surely be impressed with the performance as it has 11 built-in speakers that envelop you in the sound, thanks to the positioning of the top and side speakers. The bass response is tight and deep because of the dual bass drivers within the Arc’s design. Everything is easily controlled with the Sonos S2 app from your mobile device.

Reviews are pretty good for the Sonos Arc, and you will understand why. It is the perfect smart soundbar that has all-in-one features. Customers also commended the easy setup: plug it into the wall with the supplied power cable and into the TV with the supplied HDMI cable and you’re all set. So if you really want to upgrade your sound quality at home, this is a great choice worth every dollar.

Overall Rating: 9/10

  • Sound Performance: 10/10
  • Design: 10/10
  • Connectivity: 10/10
  • Device Controls: 9/10

Pros:

  • Built-in Google Assistance, Alexa, Apple AirPlay 2
  • Easily connected
  • Sonos is designed for music systems

Cons:

  • Higher price point
  • Relatively heavier and larger, not ideal for wall mount brackets

3. Bose Soundbar 700

Bose Soundbar 700

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The Bose Soundbar 700 contains four mid-range drivers, as well as a single-center channel driver. It is custom designed using Bose’s proprietary engineering, so the low-profile transducers provide exceptional clarity without requiring a bulky outer shell. It weighs 10.5 pounds, so it can sit on your entertainment center or TV stand or be mounted on the wall. Measurements are at 4.25 x 38.5 x 2.25 inches.

Distortion is virtually eliminated because of their “QuietPort Technology,” and their “PhaseGuide” allows for accurate sound directions. When tested, it gave us the full range of tones and sounds. It offers a wide array of input ports and connectivity alongside Bluetooth technology and Wi-Fi features. Lastly, it has built-in voice controls through Alexa and Google Assistant and additional remote control.

Most buyers give this Soundbar 700 a full five out of five stars. We really loved the customizable settings on the Bose app, so you can adjust it to sound like a full-on movie theater, even if you are just in your living room.

However, some customers found it tricky to set up. Reviews included comments like this was not a simple plug-in set up because you do need the app on a smartphone or tablet or voice control through a smart speaker. In addition, some experienced crashes and bugs on the app while starting.

The Soundbar 700 is a great high-end product for people looking to boost their home theater audio for an affordable price without purchasing a full surround sound system.

Overall Rating: 9/10

  • Sound Performance: 9/10
  • Design: 9/10
  • Connectivity: 8/10
  • Device Controls: 8/10

Pros:

  • Easily integrates with other Bose products, taking this from a 2.0 soundbar to full 5.1
  • Well-built to ensure durability over time
  • Supports Dolby and DTS series inputs, among others
  • Easy to set up

Cons:

  • Does not include full HDMI ports
  • The sound may become slightly distorted in larger spaces
  • Only upgrades through compatible Bose products

Sound Bar 700 Specs

Dimensions:31.5” x 1.75” x 4” (W x H x D)
Weight:7 lbs
Warranty:1 year
Watts:600
Wireless Connectivity:Wi-Fi, Bluetooth
Dolby Atmos:No
DTS X:No
DTS Virtual X:No

4. Sonos Beam

Sonos Beam

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The Sonos Beam is the smart, compact soundbar perfect for a rich, detailed sound that will fill your room – all for an affordable price. It offers easy control through a remote, your voice, or the Sonos app. Sonos Beam is a light product at 6.2 pounds and 25.6 x 2.7 x 3.9 inches. What makes this unique is its part of a buildable surround sound system. You can add more Sonos products for a fantastic sound system – like Sonos One SLs for a surround sound system or Sonos Sub for added bass.

Customer reviews average 4.6 out of five stars, and with good reason. It already comes with an HDMI cable and has complete HDMI inputs, so you can use this to connect converters or analog audio for a better listening experience. The app even allows for settings such as “Ambient” surround setting or adjusting in between music and TV use.

The Sonos Beam offers a wealth of convenient features and produces exceptional sound for smaller rooms. Despite being a compact soundbar, you don’t have to worry about compromising audio quality or lacking Alexa voice control.

Overall Rating: 8/10

  • Sound Performance: 8/10
  • Design: 9/10
  • Connectivity: 7/10
  • Device Controls: 9/10

Pros:

  • Includes HMI ARC, Ethernet, Wi-Fi, and Bluetooth connectivity
  • Exceptional sound in a compact, sleek design
  • Vocal Enhancement mode helps to optimize dialogue outputs
  • Great technology for smaller spaces

Cons:

  • Does not support Dolby Atmos
  • Complicated set up without HDMI ARC

Sonos Beam Compact Smart Sound Bar with Voice Control Specs

Dimensions:25.625” x 2.7” x 3.94”(W x H x D)
Weight:6.2 lbs
Warranty:1 year
Wireless Connectivity:Wi-Fi
Dolby Atmos:No
DTS X:No
DTS Virtual X:No

The best overall product is the Sonos Arc – it is the smartest all-in-one soundbar for surround sound right in your home without breaking your bank account. Next to the Sonos Arc, I can definitely recommend the Bose Soundbar 700 for surround sound speakers right at home.

Meanwhile, the Sony HT-ST5000 is the best choice for a premium soundbar. That is, of course, if your budget and space permit. Otherwise, you would already be satisfied with the budget-friendly Sonos Beam.


Buyers’ Guide

Finding the perfect smart soundbar for your sound system at home depends a lot on your personal preferences. This includes the physical space you are working with, your budget, and your objectives with the speaker use.

Finding a smart soundbar with exceptional sound quality but no external subwoofer can be tricky, but hopefully, this buyer’s guide will be a big help. We tested out the most popular speakers in the market to come up with this short guide.

Before purchasing, here are some things you should know.

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Choose a soundbar with 3 or more channels.

With 3 or more channels, you can simulate surround sound for a more immersive experience without breaking your bank account. There are still 2-channel soundbars out there, but at this point, they are no more than glorified mini-stereos. So instead, opt for the soundbar with 3 or 5 channels and get as close as possible to a surround sound environment right in your home.

Consider where you want to place your soundbar.

Placement is essential because this will dictate the appropriate soundbar for you. For example, is it light enough to be wall-mounted or placed on the TV stand? Will it block the signal between your TV and remote?

In terms of aesthetics, your new soundbar shouldn’t be wider than your TV. We have tried and tested, and the perfect spot for the soundbar is centered beneath or above your TV!

Go with an active soundbar over the passive one.

Active soundbars come with built-in amplifiers, so it is definitely worth it as you’ll be saving space and not worrying about the power sources.

Passive soundbars do not have a built-in power amp, so you need an external receive or amplifier to work. However, they have better speakers, resulting in a great sound. However, these are more expensive, and you will have to connect more components, such as a traditional sub, if you want extra bass.

Getting an active soundbar will be sufficient to upgrade your audio at home. Passive soundbars are better suited for custom installations, like a full-blown Dolby Atmos system.

Pay attention to connectivity.

Most soundbars today come with Wi-Fi and Bluetooth connectivity, allowing you to easily stream music, shows, or podcast from any gadget. Your soundbar is now a stereo, too.

Always check for HDMI switching so you can switch sources without re-routing your HDMI cables.

In the past few years, soundbars are now equipped with voice controls. As a result, you can use Alexa or Google Assistant to control your listening experience, which is an absolute convenience.

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Buy from an authorized dealer.

The soundbars we have recommended all come from reputable brands that are leading in the field of consumer electronics. Buying from an authorized dealer is the right move because you will get the manufacturer’s warranty, service, and support.

Don’t glaze over this because purchasing gadgets can get tricky, and you’ll want security if there is a problem in your unit.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)

Here are customers’ most common questions, answered all in one place.

Can you add a subwoofer to a soundbar?

Many wireless soundbars ship with a wireless sub. The ones that don’t usually incorporate a woofer port allow you to add your own. However, if you want an even more immersive experience, you shouldn’t skip this!

What are Dolby Atmos soundbars?

Some newer soundbars in the market come with Dolby Atmos technology, which bounces the audio off ceilings to simulate a surround sound effect. It’s pretty good because it mimics the theater right in your house, but of course, it is not the real thing.

What is “Cinema Sound”?

Most soundbars have the “cinema sound,” “movieplex sound,” or “virtual surround sound” feature – which manufacturers claim will mimic actual home theater sound. In reality, this cinema sound adds a digital delay like reverb or echo. It is not the authentic home theater clear audio, but you feel that you are in a bigger room. Some soundbars perfected this, but it comes with a cost.

Can a soundbar be used as a center speaker?

Yes and no – some can, and some can’t. For example, a passive soundbar could potentially be used as a center channel speaker, but we don’t recommend this. Passive soundbars are not designed for this purpose, so they won’t shine if you force them to function as a center speaker in your home theater.

Conclusion

Thanks to the impressive technology for sound quality, you will find many soundbars and subs in the market. Take it from us that you don’t have to spend thousands of dollars for excellent sound quality in your home theater system. Soundbars have built-in features that you will surely enjoy and easily customize through the remote control, voice controls, and mobile app. You don’t have to spend hours adjusting the wires or standing up and down from the couch to fix the connections.

Most importantly, you can certainly achieve a fantastic sound experience without a subwoofer. Choose the best soundbar that suits your needs and calibrate it so you can make the most out of your purchase.

Don’t Miss Out!

We can share an expert tip to do a full assessment of your needs and the room you are working with before making a purchase. These factors basically dictate the soundbar that you should get and how you can use it. So please don’t make the mistake of buying the soundbar you like and discovering later that it does not fit your home theatre.

Another thing to remember is to leave room for scaling up! For example, you can easily add an external or wireless subwoofer to build your speaker system for a full-blown entertainment center at home.

How to Power a Passive Subwoofer

How to Power a Passive Subwoofer

Working with both powered and active subwoofers is easy, but passive subwoofers require an external power source.

This article will tell you how to connect a passive subwoofer to a receiver by using speaker wire connectors and an external amplifier.

How to Power a Passive Subwoofer

Passive Subwoofers

Passive subs are built without their own built-in amplifiers, so they function much like old loudspeaker units. If you have a passive subwoofer, you need to connect it to an external amplifier to power it.

On the other hand, active or powered subwoofers are self-contained. It features a speaker or amplifier configuration in which the characteristics of the amp and subwoofer speaker are optimally matched and encased in the same enclosure. For this type of sub, you do not need an external amp.

Passive Subwoofers

Are Passive Subwoofers Better Than Powered Subwoofers?

There are pros and cons to each type of sub, and it really depends on many factors, such as your budget, the sound quality you are looking for, and the space you have.

Passive subwoofers are more lightweight since they have fewer components. They are also easier to maintain. But the truth is that a subwoofer’s performance is not determined by whether it is powered or passive.

Some users may argue that powered subs are better because their built-in amplifiers allow you a worry-free experience. However, active subwoofers are more popular because they produce a deeper, more impactful sound without requiring extra components.

Meanwhile, the passive subwoofer is generally a better choice if you will place it in a small room with limited space, and you won’t be needing the powerful sound. It is easier to transport and move around since it’s smaller and less bulky. Even if you plug the passive subwoofer into an external amplifier, you can still reposition the amp in the future to improve the sound quality.

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Is it Dangerous to Connect a Passive Subwoofer to a Receiver?

It can get dangerous because passive subwoofers require a lot of power to reproduce the bass. As a result, there is a possibility that your receiver may not deliver the required power for your subwoofer to function optimally. Keep in mind that you might even blow the receiver if you are not careful with your sub! The chances of this happening are definitely higher for older and lower quality gadgets, though.

Where to Connect the Subwoofer to the Receiver

Receivers are made with many switches, ports, and toggles. Wiring is definitely required to complete the connection between a subwoofer and a receiver.

First, check the back of your receiver and look for the setting for either “Yes” or “No,” which is linked directly to your passive subwoofer. This is referring to whether or not you have an active or a passive sub. Since you have the passive sub, be sure that the setting is on “Yes.” By doing so, you are telling your receiver to send all of the bass information through the sub-out connection on the back. All of this information is then transferred down into your passive sub.

Speaker Connector

You will need to have your passive subwoofer wired to one of the speaker connectors. Then you can connect the speaker wire to the speaker line of the subwoofer. There will be ‘Speaker In’ ports on your passive sub.

Be very careful that your sub is not pulling too much power beyond what the receiver can supply. This can result in overheating and become flammable.

Zone 2 Connectors

Another quick and easy way to connect passive subs to your AV or audiovisual receiver is the use the Zone 2 ports on the receiver.

The typical setup goes like this:

#1. Loopback the sub’s pre-out to phono (analog line) in.
#2. Activate the Zone 2 port.
#3. Enter the AVR’s setting and configure the receiver to play the phono input. This will now become the sub via your Zone 2 connection.
#4. Set the Zone 2 midrange (and up) frequency attenuated down. This allows you to use the AVR itself as a crossover.

However, some of the Zone 2 receivers do not have a crossover. Instead, it supplies a full-range signal. If this is the case for you, then use the power in Zone 1 for your sub.

Receiver Sub out

The sub-out port is popular on most older receivers. This port can power your passive subwoofer, and it is usually located on the bottom half. You can then use the receiver’s cutoff to control the audio frequencies sent to your passive subwoofer.

Subwoofer Wireless Connections

Recent subwoofers in the market now allow for wireless connections. There are two major types:

  • Wireless subwoofers with built-in wireless receivers. These receivers connect seamlessly to the subwoofer line output of your home theater receiver. So if you happen to have this sub, all you need to do is connect the receivers to the line output. No need for extra tools, connectors, and equipment!
  • The second method is a wireless transmitter that connects to any home theater receiver and a powered subwoofer with a line output. You should opt for this if your subwoofer does not have a built-in wireless receiver.

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How to Connect a Passive Subwoofer to a Receiver

Step #1: Check the Subwoofer

Before attempting any wired connections, inspect the kind of passive subwoofer you’ve got. Next, check whether it has a dual or single voice call woofer system. Double voice call woofers have multiple wiring options compared to single voice call ones.

Depending on what you’ve got, read the manufacturer’s manual and recommendations before moving forward. The last thing you want is to break your sub or your receiver.

Step #2: Double Check That You Have the Right RCA Cables

The most commonly used connectivity cables between subwoofers and receivers are RCA. But this connection depends on the type of subwoofer available, either a mono or stereo transmitter.

If your subwoofer is a monotype, you only need one RCA cable between our passive subwoofer and receiver. But if you are using a stereo subwoofer, you will need two RCA cables in your setup.

In this step, you will need to confirm that the color of the cables matches the ports on your subwoofer where the connection should be made.

Step #3: Connect The External Amplifier

Since passive subwoofers allow you to work with any amplifier, you are free to experiment with any external amp. But be careful before attempting to connect it to the amplifier.

Start by ensuring that your passive subwoofer is switched off. Then wire the RCA cables to the sub and ten to the external amplifier. The jack on the amp where your RCA cables are connected should be labeled subwoofer output or LFE (low-frequency effects).

The same goes if you are connecting more than one subwoofer.

Step #4: Connect The Amplifier To The Speakers

Once the external amplifier is wired to the subwoofer, it is finally time to connect the speakers!

Check the rear side of the amp for output jacks labeled ‘Front’ or ‘Main,’ then use the outputs to connect the speakers to the amp. Ensure that the right and left speakers are connected appropriately during this wiring step.

If your speakers are not labeled left or right, check for the polarities label instead. The negative terminal of the speaker should be connected to the negative terminal of the amplifier, and the same goes for the positive terminal.

Step #5: Switch On The Sound System And Fine Tune The Sound To Your Liking

Once you have connected everything and the subwoofer and speakers are properly wired to the receiver, switch on the main power supply and receive. As you test this out, make sure that the volume is not too high. Then use the bass management on the receiver to control the sound performance. This is the perfect time to customize your home theater and listen for any distortions or errors in the sound quality so you can adjust accordingly.

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How to Connect a Passive Subwoofer to a Receiver

The Bottom Line

If you are an audiophile or movie enthusiast, you surely will not regret investing in a subwoofer over traditional speakers. Unfortunately, the typical loudspeakers you get in a home theater system cannot reproduce all the sound frequencies they receive. So, essentially, you miss out on a better sound experience whenever you watch movies or TV at your home.

Listening to music alone is already an improved experience with subwoofers. The extra bass, instrumentals, underlying vocals will shine through thanks to the LFE or low-frequency effects that are pretty much the specialty of subwoofers.

Lastly, if you enjoy gamers or watching sports, the subwoofer will improve the audio experience. You will be even more immersed in the game or match because of the sound effects that your speaker system will reproduce.

Make sure that you purchase a passive subwoofer or powered subwoofer that fits all of your needs. Be sure to check all the wires and ports too. These should be in good condition to ensure proper connections to an external amplifier or AV receiver if needed. Not to mention, the size and structure of your home theater are important in determining if a front-firing or down-firing sub is best for you. Finally, the surrounding sound and low-frequency range will be worth the price and setup. Once you tick all of these boxes, get ready to enjoy the high-quality sound in your home theater.

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SVS SB 2000 Reviews (2021)

SVS SB-2000 Reviews

If you have been searching far and wide for the perfect sub, you have probably encountered the world-renowned company SVS.

SVS is pretty much the crowd favorite among audio and home theater publications. They have earned it because of their high-performance subs and speakers at reasonable prices.

Their subwoofer lineup is impressive, and they move from the top of the line going down. They scale back on the advanced features and aesthetics without comprising performance.

With that, their entry-level subs are at par (or even better) than most of their competition’s mid-level to premium offerings in the market.

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SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer (Black Ash) – 12-inch Driver, 500-Watts RMS, Sealed Cabinet
  • The SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer combines power, quickness, intelligent...
  • Dimension: 14.6-Inch H x 14.2-Inch W x 15.4-Inch D

What Makes the SVS Subwoofer Line Stand Out?

Well, SVS made a name for itself through its Prime and Ultra speakers, audio products, and accessories that the previous generation surely loved.

These products can disappear, and the brand’s reputation would not suffer because of their world-class subwoofers. Their subwoofer lines currently include 1000, 2000, new 3000, 4000, and 16-Ultra Series. As you climb the ladder, of course, there are added features, more low-frequency depth, and the ability to pressure larger spaces with more bass energy.

SVS advocates for getting multiple subs, too. The listening room in your home will benefit from two smaller subwoofers vs. one large sub. Each sub will have different peaks and dips caused by the geometry of the room and its placement therein. Installing multiple subs gives you more bass coverage over a larger number of variable seating positions, thereby increasing everyone’s music listening experience.

This article will discuss their SB 2000 and compile a handful of relevant customer reviews from various websites like Amazon.

SVS released 2000-series, made up of the PB-2000 ($799) and SB-2000 ($699). These two products are the prime example of SVS’s mastery of the art of thoughtful sound engineering and design.

SVS PB 2000

SVS PB 2000

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The SVS PB-2000 is a large, ported sub capable of delivering loud and deep bass in large rooms, while the SB-2000 is sealed and much more compact and perfect for home theaters. The ported PB-2000, available in black ash, has a 12-inch front-firing driver but in a ported enclosure that reaches deeper down to 17 Hz, versus 19 Hz in the sealed version, and extends to 250 Hz versus 220 Hz of the SB 2000. In addition, the four-inch front port takes up more space, making the enclosure larger at 20.9 x 17.3 x 23.3 inches and weighing at 66 lbs. It’s almost double in the SB 2000 due to the size difference and increased internal bracing.

SVS SB 2000

SVS SB 2000

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Meanwhile, the SVS SB-2000 has a 12-inch front-firing woofer with a 500 watt RMS amplifier in a sealed 14.6 x 14.2 x 15.4-inch enclosure. It is made available in premium black ash ($699) or piano gloss black ($799) at about 45 lbs. Its powder modes include Auto On via a toggle switch and a 3-12V trigger (3.5mm TRS mini-jack) input to link with other equipment. Audio connections are stereo line-level RCA left and right/LFE inputs, along with left and right RCA outputs.

You will find that SVS offers the optional SouthPath Wireless Audio Adapter for $119.99. On the back, you will find continuously variable gain control, continuously variable phase control between 0 to 180 degrees, and a continuously variable 50 to 160 Hz 12 dB/octave low pass filter with disable/LFE setting. Note that the filters will be set via those controls if you are using the LFE output from your surround sound processor. Lastly, a fixed 80 Hz 12 dB/octave high pass filter on the line-level outputs.

SVS makes both sealed and ported versions of their subs. It’s definitely up to you to choose the version that best suits your needs and space. For example, if you create a surround sound system for mostly gaming, movies, and watching TV, you may prefer a ported enclosure as it offers more punch and thump. But if you prioritize music over explosions and bullets and similar sound effects, you might be better off with the tighter sound of the sealed sub. These are the main sonic differences between the two versions. In the case of the PB 2000 and SB 2000, note the size and weight differences, too.

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SVS SB 2000 Summary

Pros

Pros
  • Protective non-resonant steel mesh grille
  • Rivals much more expensive subwoofers
  • Even and smooth from top to bottom
  • Tight, highly-articulated bass

Cons

Cons
  • Grill is large, adds to footprint
  • Vinyl veneer is unremarkable
  • No brass spikes/footers included

SVS SB 2000 Specifications

Watts RMS500 Watts
Speaker MaterialSubwoofer
Subwoofer Size12″
Frequency Response19-220Hz
Crossover Frequency1800 Hz
Speaker typeBox
ColorBlack Ash, Piano Black Gloss
Mounting TypeFloor Standing
ConnectionsWired, audio line-in, audio line-out, trigger
Power500 W room energizing power
Enclosure500 watt RMS amplifier in a sealed 14.6 by 14.2 by 15.4-inch
Inputs3.5mm TRS mini-jack
Dimensions15.4 x 14.2 x 14.6 inches
Weight35 lbs (16 kg)

What are the Different SVS SB 2000 Specs?

Hookup

SB 2000’s packaging is pretty much in line with what you’d expect from SVS. It is nothing too fancy but also secure and straightforward.

Unboxing the 40 lb sub is manageable. In terms of connections, you can run a couple of SVS Soundpath interconnects to the LFE (low-frequency effect) input on each sub from the LFE outputs of another receiver. If you find yourself lacking dual sub connections on your receiver, you can either use a Y-splitter or connect one cable between your receiver and one of the subs and daisy chain the output of that sub to the input of the other. If this sounds confusing, you can refer to the SVS manual, as they have outlined this process in great detail. Otherwise, you will find plenty of tutorials online for reference.

Technical Features and Design

The SB-2000 relies on a custom-made 12-inch driver that SVS designed specifically for their 2000 series. Technical details behind the driver are endless, but it is basically a driver that can stand up to the power delivered by the sub’s lifeblood, which is a 500-watt RMS, 1100-watt peak Sledge STA-500D DSP amplifier.

Most people also loved that SVS designed the amplifier to have a carefully integrated DSP control. This not only changes the sub’s output but protects it from going overboard and becoming damaged. With this, you can use the sub as much as you want with your loudest movies or music and it will push certainly deliver. Also, thanks to the DSP control, you won’t have to worry about it overheating or anything blowing up in your living room, bedroom, or home theater.

The SB-2000 does not have any speaker-level inputs on its amplifier, so you won’t be able to use it with older receivers that lack a subwoofer output. However, it has stereo line-level outputs to go with its stereo line-level input. This means you can use it with pre-amp or amp combos and integrated amps outfitted with pre-amp outputs and amplifier inputs. SVS designed this product with a lot of room for personal tweaking, so your options are not limited.

As for the controls, there are three high-quality metal knows for volume, phase, and low pass filter. The low pass filter frequency range is a whopping 50-160 Hertz (Hz). They also included an LFE or low-frequency effects setting, which bypasses the low pass filter entirely. This function of the LFE leaves the receiver or an integrated amp’s bass management settings to do the heavy lifting.

Setup and Test Conditions

Since subwoofers do not have a port, the SB-2000 allows for more flexibility in its placement options. For those with a smaller space to work with, you can easily tuck the SB 2000 in a corner without worrying about port noise. The best place for this subwoofer depends on the size and shape of the intended room to place it in and considering your listening position. Given the manageable weight of the SB 2000, it’s pretty easy to move it around the space and test it around for sound quality.

If you have other loudspeakers or subs in the room, it is now time to manually calibrate everything to build quality to achieve the sound experience you like.

SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer (Black Ash) – 12-inch Driver, 500-Watts RMS, Sealed Cabinet
  • The SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer combines power, quickness, intelligent...
  • Dimension: 14.6-Inch H x 14.2-Inch W x 15.4-Inch D

Performance

One user tried it out by playing frequency sweeps to determine if there are peaks or valleys in the sub’s performance (without considering the room resonance). According to them, there were no anomalies, and the even and consistent performance of the SB 2000 was impressive – from 150 Hz down to 25 Hz, with a slight drop off at 20 Hz and beyond, which is perfectly understandable.

This review from Amazon claims that the SB 2000 is the best subwoofer they have ever heard in person, paired with HTD Level 3 bookshelves. If the frequency is too low to play (which is far lower than anything you’ll normally encounter in music, games, and movies), the sub goes silent. There is no distortion, and it reproduces everything clearly until the driver is physically incapable of reproducing the sound.

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Music

To test out sound quality with music, selections such as Paramore’s “Ain’t it Fun,” Johnny Lang’s “Bump in the Road,” and Russell Gunn’s “Eighty-One” were played and tested.

As for “Bump in the Road,” it isn’t loaded with deep bass, but there is a bass guitar that moves all over its available range, with a constant level of punch and quick musicality. Playing on the SB-2000, the sub proved it could start and stop perfectly, but it had no problem singing beautifully in its upper-frequency range while delivering perfect precision. Overall the performance was reminiscent of the SVS SB-13 Ultra – which is expensive by at least $1,000 more.

The SVS SB 2000 was also tested against LL Cool J’s “Going Back to Cali” as it gets deep at the 45-second mark. Impressively enough, the SB 2000 didn’t break a sweat. The sub played louder and much deeper than their size and specs would indicate. It only wavered by losing accuracy and getting a bit boomy at maximum (borderline dangerous) volume output levels, which you won’t be utilizing most of the time anyway!

Based on its performance for music sound quality, the SB 2000 presents a pretty good deal and exceeds expectations for its price point.

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Movie Sound Quality

Since subs are perfect for home theatre setups, an SB 2000 review would not be complete without analyzing its performance on movie soundtracks.

While playing the Life of Pi, the SB 2000 nailed every single pulse during the Tiger’s guttural roar. This added a level of realism to the sound experience that listeners might have never experienced before.

Another review looked at the movie Skyfall – and the sub did not disappoint. It was only a little short of the SB-13 Ultra. There was plenty of ultra-low frequency production, shaking up the seats a little bit.

However, it was missing the mush and mud from the rest of the sound spectrum – something you would expect from the highest-performance ported subs. For larger rooms, you can expect some of the visceral experience to be lost. (But this is what the larger PB-2000 sub is for.)

What About the SB 2000 Cons?

Every gadget has its downside. But looking at customer review notes for SB 2000, there are only a handful of negative comments especially given the price point.

Some users mentioned wanting a more premium finish and the ability to create and tweak custom EQ settings. Others may prefer brass spikes or footers for an added level of acoustic control, but these can always be bought separately and added on as desired.

They did nitpick the connection flexibility because the SB 2000 Pros lack XLR inputs. But this is rare given its price point, and the performance of the sub already raises expectations.

In terms of the control app, it was greatly convenient not to get behind the subs to make adjustments. But it might be improved if you can set the app to control both subs at once. As far as we can tell, there is currently no option to adjust both subs concurrently. Instead, users have to manually adjust one sub then switch over to the other sub to control it. While this sounds like a minor step, it can leave you double-checking the volume level on each sub, which can be distracting during critical listening hours. People are hoping these can be rectified and updated on the app in a few years.

This customer review outlines the cons: unremarkable vinyl veneer, no brass spikes or footers included, and the large grill, which adds to the footprint.

Given all the pros and cons, you might be wondering how the SVS SB 2000 fares compared to other subs in the market.

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How Does the SB 2000 Compare with Other Speakers?

Given the $699 price point, if you are not convinced that dual subs are the right choice for you and your home, you can look at other brands.

Not all subs are created equally, so here are some alternatives to consider.

1. JL Audio E-Sub

JL Audio E-Sub

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You can spend roughly the same amount of money and buy the JL Audio E-Sub e110 for $1,850. However, you will lose a bit in driver size because the JL’s has a 10-inch driver vs. the 12-inch driver of the SVS. JL does make up for it with the raw power, as you’ll go from 500 watts up to 1,200 watts. JL Audio is well-known for its car audio lineup, but its home theatre products are also worth your buck.


2. Definitive Technology SuperCube 6000

Polk Audio T15 100

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If you are truly interested in a dual subsystem but are working with limited space, try the Definitive Technology SuperCube 6000 for $999/each. It is way more compact than the SB 2000, with a 9-inch front-firing driver, flanked by dual 10-inch passive radiators, and powered by a bigger 750-watt amplifier. Technology subs are definitely impressive in performance despite the small enclosures as their engineers have mastered the compact sound technologies.


3. Polk Audio DSW Pro 660

Retailing for $649 each, Polk Audio promises to deliver a deep bass impact with a classic box style. This is their most powerful sub to date, with a 400-watt digital amp to move the 12-inch dynamic balance driver. Average reviews are 4.7 stars for this product, and people seem to love its deep bass notes and durability for up to five years. This is a great option if you are working with a smaller budget.

Conclusion

Given all of these pros and cons, if the SVS SB-2000 fits your budget, look no further. It is the best offering in its price range, and SVS has made the SB 2000 a class of its own as far as sealed subwoofers go.

The sub offers a deadly combination of potent bass bower, tight articulation, deep extension, and room-rumbling fun. For a high-end bass set up under $1,500, perhaps the only thing better than owning an SVS SB 2000 is to own two of them.

SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer (Black Ash) – 12-inch Driver, 500-Watts RMS, Sealed Cabinet
  • The SVS SB-2000 Subwoofer combines power, quickness, intelligent...
  • Dimension: 14.6-Inch H x 14.2-Inch W x 15.4-Inch D

Woofer vs. Subwoofer – Learn the Difference

Woofer vs. Subwoofer - Learn the Difference

If you are interested in a good home theater system or simply want amazing sound quality, investing in a woofer or subwoofer is a great idea. Different speakers have varying features when handling sounds and notes. That’s why performers, singers, DJs, and clubs use more than just one kind of speaker. They will invest in a specialized speaker such as subwoofers, woofers, mid-ranges, and tweeters to achieve the best sound quality.

Woofer vs. Subwoofer - Learn the Difference

This article will mostly discuss the two loudspeakers – woofer vs. subwoofer – and how they differ. Figuring out how they vary and what they are best suited for will help you decide between getting a woofer or subwoofer for your needs. Since woofers and subwoofers are speakers, they work by converting electrical signals into sounds, using the concept that variations of an electric signal facilitate the speaker’s movement with it and create sound waves through the air (or water). So whenever there are audible differences and distortions noticeable in the sounds, that’s all because of your woofers.

While they have similar features, there are distinct ways to use a woofer vs. a subwoofer. We’ll help you narrow down on which one you’re better off buying between the two by describing each type, differentiating them, and listing down the factors to consider depending on the sonic experience you are looking for.

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What is a Woofer?

First off, woofers are loudspeakers. What makes a woofer unique is because it specializes in the lower end of the audible spectrum of sound. Funnily enough, the term ‘woof’ from woofer refers to the low sound of a dog’s bark.

In a typical home audio setup, the woofer is part of the main speaker system. These are usually the floor-standing speakers you see in home theatres or living rooms. It helps the tweeter with mid-range frequencies since they typically have a range of about 20 to 2 kHz (kilohertz), which enables it to play low to mid-range frequencies. Since they have a wider range of sounds, woofers are perfect for use in home theatres!

What is a Subwoofer?

A woofer is a specialized speaker, while a subwoofer is a specialized woofer that covers a more narrow frequency range. Subwoofers are used to emphasize the deeper bass notes.

There are many subwoofer variants in the market. You can differentiate among these products by looking at efficiency, cost, size, and even their distortion and power handling capabilities.

Normally the structure of a subwoofer is a plastic or wooden enclosure that has one or more woofers fitted into it. However, the focus on the lower frequency ranges causes the subwoofer to be often designed as a larger speaker than woofers are. This larger size allows the driver to move a lot of air while maintaining the required low frequency. Remember that it matters how you place your subwoofer because it can make room for the emergence of multiple subwoofer variants in that area.

Subwoofers are made up of one or more woofers mounted on a wooden loudspeaker enclosure. This enclosure is built to withstand air pressure and resist deformation as these variables affect the sound quality produced. The common subwoofer designs are bass reflex, horn-loaded, bandpass, and infinite battle.

The frequency range of your subwoofer is determined by how you use it. For a subwoofer at home, the frequency range will usually be between 20 to 200 Hertz (Hz) and around 100 Hz for subwoofers used in enclosed professional settings, like a church or a hall.

Since subwoofers concentrate on a narrower spectrum of frequencies, you should carefully place them to have a fuller sound. This “fuller” sound effect cannot be achieved on a regular woofer. However, this can get tricky because your sound system is now more complex. You may need to invest and add other speakers to cover the higher range of frequencies and make the most out of your subwoofer setup.

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Can a Woofer Be Used as a Subwoofer?

Since a subwoofer is a specialized type of woofer, you might be wondering if a woofer can function as a subwoofer. The simple answer is yes – a woofer can be used as a subwoofer, but the resulting sound is still that of a woofer.

You can use a woofer as a subwoofer by installing the same driver in its box with its amplifier. This way, it functions with an LFE or low-frequency effect.

Drivers classified as subwoofers are often designed for lower frequencies than the range that typical woofers cover. So while a woofer can be used as a subwoofer, you still cannot expect the lower frequencies to be as crisp on your woofer vs. subwoofer.

The Differences Between Woofer Vs. Subwoofer

The Differences Between Woofer Vs. Subwoofer
Photo by Sandy Kawadkar on Unsplash

The key difference between woofer vs. subwoofer is the frequency range. Subwoofers are used to produce a wide range of low sounds and are great for loud bass sounds, unlike woofers. Woofers cover high frequencies as well as the mid and treble range.

With woofers, while their covered range of frequency is pretty adequate for most of your applications, you might want to get a subwoofer if you want the best sound quality.

It all depends on what you want the sound system effect to be. If you plan on a sound system that has more than two speakers, then opt for woofers. But if you want better sound quality from your sound system – now is the time to ask if you should get a subwoofer or a woofer.

Subwoofers from reputable brands will have high accuracy in producing low frequencies. Since the human ear can hear sounds ranging from 20 kHz to as low as 20 Hz, artists and producers feature special low-frequency effects of LFEs in their content to make it more entertaining. This goes for movies, films, music, and every creative thing in between. Directors want their audiences to make the most out of their viewing experience, so they utilize this range and work with more LFEs.

Let’s say that in your home, you are using floor-standing woofers to handle low-frequency waves. Your woofers will generally reproduce sub-bass sounds ranging from 40 Hz to 2500 Hz. Unfortunately, this means that much of the LFEs falling in the narrow range of below 35 Hz will generally be lost. You, unfortunately, will not be able to hear or enjoy them in the way that artists, directors, or producers had hoped or designed.

But if you have a subwoofer, they can reproduce even the extremely low frequencies ranging from 20 to 200 Hz! This way, they can handle the narrow frequency ranges that create earth trembling effects. Imagine your favorite movie and all its bass sounds! You can replicate this experience right at home by getting the right subwoofer set up.

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Types of Subwoofers

Types of Subwoofers

Another important thing to note is there are two types of subwoofers you can choose from.

This will help you determine if you want the specialized features that subwoofers offer or if these are unnecessary and you are already satisfied with a woofer.

Active Subwoofer

Active subwoofers are also known as powered subwoofers. This type is self-contained. It has line-level inputs and outputs, a built-in amplifier, and a volume control panel. It doesn’t require an external amplifier to compensate for the power. Instead, it relies on its built-in amplifier, which does a pretty decent job of providing the required power to amp up the large speaker driver.

However, you will need an independent power source. This means that your active or powered subwoofer should be plugged in a power outlet for it to work.

It has its volume control panel, too. In addition, the powered subwoofer comes with its independent gain and volume controls separate from those in the receiver. These controls will allow you to tune it to meet your required specifications or sound preferences.

Passive Subwoofer

Meanwhile, a passive subwoofer works with an external amplifier (similar to a typical loudspeaker). The subwoofers use more power to decrease low-frequency sounds. Passive subwoofers have a subwoofer driver, enclosure and are powered by an external amplifier. This type relies on the external amplifier to achieve the best sound; otherwise, this is sacrificed. If this is what you have (or want), you will need to first connect the amp to the preamp output of the receiver. This way, the preamp will send clean audio signals to the amplifier for amplification. You will certainly make the most out of having a passive subwoofer.

When dealing with a passive subwoofer, the amplifier or receiver should have enough power to handle the bass that your subwoofer will produce. Otherwise, the energy supply will be drained from your amplifier. They require a lot of power, so setting it up properly and accurately is a necessary step. Failure to add an external amplifier means that your subwoofer won’t have enough power to reproduce the deep floor trembling bass. You basically won’t get to make the most out of your subwoofer and your listening experience.

If you are looking to buy a subwoofer, here are the factors to consider because they will impact your listening experience:

#1. Power

Like previously mentioned, active subwoofers have built-in amplifiers. These are more powerful because it gives you more control over how the power is used.

It would be best if you also looked into the driver. The larger the driver, the deeper the bass. This is ideal if you have a lot of space to work with and prefer loud bass sounds.

On average, individuals lean towards subwoofers that have 10 to 12-inch cones.

#2. Cone Mount

There are two ways to mount a single cone subwoofer – down-firing or front-firing. Since the subwoofer’s cone moves back and forth to produce sound waves, the way these are mounted makes a huge difference in the quality of sound you can expect.

Keep in mind that down-firing cones are mounted on the bottom of the subwoofer cabinet. Front-firing cones will be on the side of the cabinet. Cone mounting is a matter of personal preference, so take note of the space you are working with and the overall look and sounds you want to achieve.

Casing plays a big role in the quality of sound from your subwoofer. The way its encased makes a huge difference, and even the build of the case affects the way it functions and produces sound.

#3. Casing

Acoustic suspension is where the woofers are inside of a box, producing a base response sound. The sound produced by an acoustic suspension enclosure is precise and clear.

Meanwhile, base reflex casings have a port. This makes the foundation of your subwoofer bigger and more extended. Having a port allows some of the power produced by the woofer to come out. The enclosures are better on power but less accurate.

#4. Sealed Box

A sealed box produces a smooth bass line, resulting in an even flow of music. In addition, sealed box woofers tend to have better low-frequency ability compared to other types of boxes. It will also produce a transition from one note to the next, which is quick and clear.

However, a sealed box also has its cons. These types of boxes require more power because they lack efficiency. In addition, they do not produce at the volume levels that other boxes can.

Because of that, you can easily damage your subwoofer as it’s more reliant on power. More power means more heat, but a sealed box – hence the name – does not let the heat escape. You will also notice distortion in the signal because it will be heard in the upper base note resulting from your subwoofer.

#5. Ported Box

A ported box comes with a port. The result with this box is better because the port adds more boom the quality of bass sound from the subwoofer.

The port will mimic a speaker, which gives you a rounder and fuller sound. Plus, this ported box has a better low frequency compared to a sealed box. There is also better circulation and airflow since it is not sealed. This allows frequencies to produce a better boom, and you can play the speaker for longer periods without worrying about overheating or draining the power source.

But ported boxes can be tricky to adjust with certain speakers. The design can distort within the speaker. Unfortunately, heat does not have a chance to spread out evenly when the speaker is played long and hard. Think of it as your typical wear and tear as with any gadget or appliance.

The ported box also does not provide a cushion for the speaker, which can cause issues in both functionality and sound.

Lastly, these types of boxes are larger. Therefore, you will have to consider the space you are working with before purchasing a ported box.

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Conclusion – Which One Should You Buy Between a Woofer Vs. Subwoofer?

Conclusion - Which One Should You Buy Between a Woofer Vs. Subwoofer?

Subwoofers are perfect for home theatre systems and clubs because they give a more realistic and engrossing sound. Just imagine the thumping bass from your favorite club. That sound is thanks to the bass speaker abilities of a subwoofer that woofers cannot offer. If you are more particular about personal settings for your listening experience, you’re better off with a subwoofer because it allows for more control.

Meanwhile, woofers are more appropriate for compact and portable systems such as your car. They are usually smaller, so it is more convenient to set them up and transport them. In addition, woofers consist of just one speaker driver inside an enclosure. Since there is not much technical wiggle room here, opt for a world-class brand to get the high-quality sound.

There is no general rule of thumb if a woofer or subwoofer is better. It depends on your needs, preferences, and budget!

Invest in a quality woofer or subwoofer for an amazing sound experience, but keep in mind that not all speakers are created equally. Always go with a trusted brand with many good reviews that can provide you with the amazing sound experience you deserve.

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